La Ventana Stories, an ongoing series of write-ups, started in December 2018, about the history and the happenings of La Ventana Bay and the surrounding region. Contributed by seasonally resident authors, look for a new story every few weeks during the windy season.
La Ventana Stories
The Decline of the American Kestrel
If you would have told me ten years ago that I would own a home in El Sargento and even more unbelievable, that I would have a pair of American kestrels in March flitting in and out of a wooden nest box that I installed in my yard only 80 feet from my back patio, I would have thought you to be “crazy in the head”! But here I am enjoying the chittering of a pair of kestrels as they copulate on the hydro wires and on a bush just outside the entrance hole of my nest box, which was kindly built for me by Greg Julien and Kevin Katzmann. These are all good signs that the birds might raise young, however I have long since learned not to count my chickens, errr falcons, before they hatch.
But just to back up a bit, you need to know that I had studied the American kestrel for no less than four decades, bred thousands of them in captivity for research purposes, and was at one time the world’s leading authority on the species. What is really incredible is that this tiny falcon used to be known as one of the most common birds of prey to be seen in North America! Today though, we are worried about losing it!
While the kestrel does have one or two places in North America where its population is doing fairly well (the state of Idaho and the Baja Peninsula being two of them), it is fast disappearing from the landscape elsewhere, particularly in the northeastern part of the continent.
Why do we know that it is declining? Lots of reasons… obvious downward trends in their numbers have been evident for at least three decades from Christmas Bird Counts, Breeding Bird Surveys and local Breeding Bird Atlases, numerous hawk migration count organizations, the Raptor Population Index, and the American Kestrel Partnership run by The Peregrine Fund, Inc. and associated nest box programs. Managers of nest box programs are seeing normal production in their nest boxes, e.g. 4 to 5 nestlings fledged per box, but none of the banded young are returning to their area, seemingly disappearing into a big black hole!
All of this begs the question – what is causing the decline? For various good reasons, I eventually discarded a bunch of hypotheses including disease, chemicals, cats, and collisions with cars, windows, planes and turbines. To be truthful, they likely contribute a bit to the decline. Some say that the now numerous Cooper’s hawk is eating all the kestrels, but that does not fit with the patterns of decline. However, the growing presence of this bird-eating hawks all over North America may be driving kestrels out of habitats in which they used to forage and nest. I mean, would you buy a casa in a neighborhood if you knew that velociraptors lived in the area?
Alternatively, what about the war we have been waging on insects for centuries, e.g. draining wetlands, using pesticides with reckless abandon, etc.? Insect populations have declined by as much as 40 percent on a world-wide basis and so have a lot of other insectivorous birds like the kestrel. The widespread use of neonicotinoids as seed dressings could also be playing a role.
And what about climate warming! There is no doubt in any sane scientist’s mind that our climate is warming. It could be having important impacts on the food resources needed to nourish young in the early summer, to feed upon during wintering and migration both ways, and for food on the wintering grounds. Also, when American kestrels head south to winter and back again, could they be dying on the way due to extreme weather patterns, e.g. tornados, drought, hurricanes, etc. never to return to breed and replenish their numbers?
Let’s hope that we find the answer before it is too late for this amazing little falcon.
Warm, not very windy, and very sunny: Snakes
The last few days have been warm, not very windy, and very sunny. When you put these three things together, you get snakes!
On Sunday I went on three separate snake-searching expeditions: one in the morning, one in the early afternoon, and one in the late afternoon. I could tell serpents would be out by the amount of lizards scampering about the desert.
In the morning, I found very little in the way of snakes, but some whiptail lizards were darting to and fro, and a few Zebra-Tailed Lizards were relaxing in the sun, waving their tails in the air like irritated cats. I even saw an occasional spiny lizard sitting in the sun, never too far from a hiding place.
On the afternoon trip, even more lizards were out, but I still didn’t see any signs of snakes, so I decided to check on some brush piles in which I had seen coachwhips earlier this winter. The first few piles had ground squirrels lounging on top, a sure sign that no snakes would be present. However, as I approached, one smaller pile started rustling and I had found my first snake of the day!
Finding a coachwhip and catching a coachwhip are Very Different Things. Unlike many large snakes, coachwhips are able to move at amazing speeds, though this one didn’t need any amazing speed because it already had a foolproof hideout. I returned a bit later to see if the snake had re-emerged and, although I could tell that it had, it was like trying to catch a lightning-fast, perfectly camouflaged piece of hay in a needle stack.
The third outing of the day revealed many snake tracks on the roads, at least for February, but they all seemed a bit old. Judging by the tracks, my guess is that snakes are really out from around 2:30 to 4pm this time of year.
As for which kinds of snakes you may see, most of the tracks were smaller and had the typical curves of fast-moving snakes, so I think they are likely young Baja California Coachwhips and Western Patch-Nosed Snakes, though rattlesnakes are out as well. This is still pretty early for springtime snake movement, so my guess is once this little heat wave goes by, the snakes will retreat back underground until the warmer weather of the first real spring days. Chance Stevens chancestevens123@icloud.com
Breeding season is coming!
We have made it into March! You know the old saying: March comes in like a lamb, and goes out like a lion. Well, as far as reptiles are concerned, it is very accurate! We are on the fringe of the reptile breeding season and, as temperatures warm, the snakes really start coming out. Be careful on the bike trails because, yes, there are rattlesnakes, but I mostly watch out for snakes crossing trails, since many get run over by cyclists.
On Saturday, I came across a large snake track crossing a dirt road and followed it towards a large bush. After checking the bush, I continued in the direction the snake had been moving and, to my surprise and delight, there was a large Baja California Coachwhip sprawled out in some old palm husks. Finding coachwhips is the easy part; catching them, however, is an entirely different matter.
I crept up and the snake recoiled under a husk. As I got closer, it seemed the snake had nowhere to go, so I quickly lifted the husk only to see the tail disappearing into an adjacent bush. I raced around to the other side of the bush trying to spot it. A movement caught my eye from across the clearing. It was the coachwhip! Apparently, it had teleported across the clearing. I watched as it smugly slithered into a brush pile and knew that I had been defeated.
Spring Reptile Walks! Our next walk will start at the Las Palmas Trailhead, north of town. At 9am on Friday, March 15th. We will be heading up the Las Palmas Arroyo in search of San Lucan Rock Lizards. Be ready for a longer walk in search of these beautiful endemics. chancestevens123@icloud.com
Spring Reptile Walks
Announcing: Spring Reptile Walks! The snake season is finally returning, and I am planning on hosting three or four reptile walks this early spring, starting on Sunday, March 3rd. Let’s meet at 9:30am at the Punta Gorda trailhead north of town. It is a bit difficult to schedule dates farther into the future, as we are looking for warm, no-wind days, so I will try to schedule walks about a week in advance. chancestevens123@icloud.com
Baja Bites
Known most famously for their mouth-watering fish tacos and tantalizing chili oil, Baja Bites has become quite a poppin lunch spot in La Ventana🤙🌶️🤤💥.
Paula and Alex, the owners, are both originally from different parts of Mexico and just like many of us, they met doing windsports in 1982 in Cancun. Quickly, they quickly fell in love and then with this town for its proximity to the outdoors. They now call this place home. Their favorite thing being that they can step out their front door to go biking and fishing. They are especially grateful for La Ventana’s chill vibe.
The two of them opened Baja Bites officially in 2017 out of a small trailer with a shark mouth painted on the front of it (see slide 4). You may remember that in the beginning there were just three taco options: yellowtail, shrimp, and marlin. Now, the menu features not only various taco options but also soups, salads, and baked goods. Although Alex can’t decide between the yellowtail or Tuna taco being his favorite item on the menu, he can confidently say that he is dedicated to serving good, fresh and local fish.
Come and see for yourselves! Make sure to bring along your pup and Alex will surprise them with a generous serving of fish. The Baja Bites team is always ready to greet you with a warm smile and excellent service!
⏰Open Mon – Sat, 11am-3:30pm
📍In El Teso next to KM0 & Diamanté reality.
📸 Crew pictured above left to right: Roman, Angel, Paula, Alex & Mona.
San Diego Natural History Museum
First of all, this week, I would like to deeply thank Adam Clause, Prof. Brad Hollingsworth, and the San Diego Natural History Museum for all they have done for me. For all of the people driving up or down Baja come spring, I would highly recommend stopping by the San Diego Natural History Museum. They have an amazing Baja exhibit, some beautiful reptiles, and loads more interesting stuff.
Here in LV/ES, the last few days have been very windy and cold, and most of the local reptiles are underground at the moment. I am planning another set of reptile walks in mid to late March, but it is hard to plan ahead when no wind is crucial.
In the meantime, I have been working on a new seasonal pond for our resident toad population. Because of a newly installed berm, their old pond has been closed off, so this summer it will not fill with water. I have a good location for the new pond, but am still in need of some way to keep the water from seeping into the soil. I am seeking clay, if anyone knows where I can find some. If not, the toads will just have to lose their dignity and use my back-up plan, a kiddy pool. Next week I will return for a normal column. chancestevens123@icloud.com
Mariscos El Cone
Announcing: Meet the Owner series! 👫
Join us as we share the stories of LV local restaurants and businesses. We will be interviewing owners over the next few months and finding out all about their choices to create these epic spots!
To kick start things off, we will begin with Mariscos El Cone! 🐠🍤🎣🐡🐟
Packed every night of the wind season with chatter of friends and families diving into the rich dishes, Mariscos Al Cone is known and loved by all. What some may not know is that the Mariscos Al Cone we see today is much different than the original restaurant Raymundo and Neyreda started eighteen years ago. Both born and raised in El Sargento, Raymundo and Nereyda have deep ties to this town and community. He is a longtime fisherman, and at the beginning of their gastronomic journey, they would catch goats on the island to sell the meat in Machaca burritos. Her goal was always to start a business, so they took what they knew and created this delicious seafood restaurant!
Their son, Hernan, is also an active part of this business and can be seen onsite more often than not. Hernan found it impossible to select a favorite dish, instead he let me know the most popular dishes: Camarones Rellenos, Pescado a la plancha and Tataki. A first stop for many expats and a longtime spot for many locals, there isn’t a disappointing dish on the menu.
Regulars may be familiar with William, their sweet 14-year old dog, who can be seen lounging out front (slide 4) or beside your table with eyes for whatever you have in front of you. Like William, Hernan loves that La Ventana is such a tight knit community, where people are familiar and deeply connected to each other. When stepping foot into their restaurant, we can see the strong community crystal clear. Come for a happy hour, stay for dinner and meet the whole town!
⏰ Open Monday – Saturday 8am – 9pm, Sundays 8pm – 8pm
📍 Located: on the main road directly across the street form Delfines mercado.
Try their new dish: Lobster 🦞
Water Turtle in BCS
Today, I decided to write about turtles, but not the ones you might think. This week I will be spotlighting the only native fresh water turtle in Baja California Sur.
The Baja California Slider (Trachemys nebulosa) is an interesting turtle with a mysterious and rich history. These sliders rarely leave the water, yet they inhabit many isolated oases throughout the desert. So… how did a turtle that doesn’t leave the water spread across deserts? Well, one theory is that Baja used to be much wetter.
Thousands of years ago, this peninsula was much more like the mainland adjacent to Baja, with a good bit more rainfall. The turtles could have traveled from oasis to oasis until they arrived at their current range, or they could have stayed here unchanged since the peninsula broke off from Mainland Mexico, or somehow crossed the ocean. Another possibility is that they just evolved in Baja, although this theory is probably not the answer because a very similar — if not identical — population of turtles lives in Sinaloa and Sonora on the mainland.
These are all good theories, and it is unknown how these turtles got to Baja in the first place, but we do understand how they got into all of the isolated oases. In the 1700s, natives brought these turtles northward, from their tiny natural range of the Rio San Jose Valley to all over BCS, as a food source! Now, in the Rio San Jose Valley, these turtles are actually quite rare as a direct result of overhunting.
The Baja California Slider is the only native fresh water turtle in our area, but not necessarily the only fresh water turtle living here because there may be invasive species. For example, unfortunately, Red-Eared Sliders have been released in some water sources, competing with the Baja California Sliders, and diluting the bloodline with interbreeding. These two species are very similar-looking, and it is quite difficult to tell the difference between them. I have not yet had the pleasure of crossing paths with one of these amazing reptiles, and I will follow up with a column about identifying them once I find one, and figure out for myself what the differences are. chancestevens123@icloud.com
Sea Snakes & Eels
One of the most common snake sightings that I hear about goes something like this: “I saw a sea snake on the reef today.” Although this is possible, there is a lot more to it, so let’s get into identifying sea snakes.
First of all, sea snakes are rare around here, and they are not permanent inhabitants of our reefs. They are more appropriately considered guests, and they like to keep moving. I would estimate that 80% of “sea snake” sightings are not snake sightings at all, but rather one of the resident eel species. I have lived here for over two years and have never seen a sea snake myself.
Eels are diverse and interesting fish, and come in a variety of shapes and colors, from Green Morays to Garden Eels. A great resource for identifying eels is resident William Ihne’s video, Eight Eels of Baja.
Complicating matters, some eels are called “snakes” like Tiger Reef Snakes, even though they are actually fish. The only sea snake in this area is the Pelagic Sea Snake, which is a striking yellow-bellied black-backed snake known for its fascinating lifestyle of living out at sea. Sea snakes are dangerously venomous and should be given space, though they are quite docile and unlikely to bite.
One telltale sign of a sea snake is the tail (no pun intended). The black and the yellow of the body overlap into a mottled sort of look, and the tail is flattened to aid in swimming. As far as I know, there aren’t any eels with a similar pattern of black and yellow on the tail.
Another way to tell the difference between a sea snake and an eel is by the head. An eel’s head is usually a bit smaller than its neck, and the back of its head is less well-defined. Eels are also quite happy to open their mouths in warning.
Although rare, one time when sea snakes may be observed is when they wash up on the beach. They are very sluggish on land, but still should be given space, even when they look dead.
Hopefully William’s great video and this column can help you tell fish from reptile! chancestevens123@icloud.com
Snakes in Trees
It is now winter, and most of the reptiles are underground so I am going to have to get creative. This column is about snakes in trees, and how to tell who’s who.
First of all, though unusual, any snake could find itself in a tree, even the least arboreal (arboreal means “lives in trees”). If you happen to see a snake in a tree, make sure to snap a photo because it may be a new behavior. Secondly, the “trees” around here are a bit wistful, but you know what I mean.
By far, the most common snakes to see in trees in this area are coachwhips. They are long, fast snakes that come in a variety of colors; around here, they are mostly black. I have witnessed coachwhips at the tops of trees, out on thin branches, hunting birds and much more, showing they are quite accomplished climbers. I have even seen them at the top of tall palm trees with no nearby vegetation.
Another type of arboreal snake in the area — although much rarer — is the Baja California Striped Whipsnake. Relatives of the coachwhip, these snakes are elusive and prefer wetter habitats, meaning they are mostly found in the mountains. They are black with yellow stripes, not to be confused with patch-nosed snakes, which can be black and cream-striped, and live throughout LV/ES. As for the patch-nosed snake, I have personally seen one in a tree, although they are not known to spend much time suspended in vegetation.
A few more snakes that you may see in trees include: Cape Gopher Snakes, which sometimes raid birds’ nests; Baja California Rat Snakes, which are quite rare but spend a good amount of time in trees; California Kingsnakes, which are known to hang out off the ground; and lyre snakes, who enjoy treetop life on occasion as well. chancestevens123@icloud.com